Featured Expedition
Payu Peak Expedition
Conquering the Technical Giant of the Baltoro Muztagh
Featured Expedition
Payu Peak Expedition
Conquering the Technical Giant of the Baltoro Muztagh
Conquering the Technical Giant of the Baltoro Muztagh
A demanding 40-day technical climb to the 6,610m summit of Payu Peak in Pakistan's Karakoram range.
Trip Stats
6K PeakGilgit Baltistan
Difficulty
Hard
EasyModerateHardExtreme
Max Altitude
6,610 meters
Wind Speed
30-50 km/h
Temperature
-20°C to 10°C
Peak
Payu Peak (Paiju Peak) – 6,610m / 21,686ft
Location
Baltoro Muztagh, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Duration
40 days
Best Season
June to August
Difficulty
Hard / Technical
First Ascent
July 20, 1976
Overview
Payu Peak (6,610m) rises dramatically at the western end of the Baltoro Muztagh, positioned on the north side of the legendary Baltoro Glacier. Known locally as 'Paiju,' meaning salt, the area serves as the final green oasis before the ice. The mountain's climbing history is a tapestry of high-altitude drama, from the tragic 1974 attempt to the historic 1976 first ascent by a Pakistani team led by Bashir Ahmed and Nazir Sabir. Climbing Payu Peak involves navigating complex glacial terrain, steep ice, and mixed rocky patches. Its strategic location offers unparalleled summit views of the world's highest peaks, including K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum massif, making it a prestigious objective for mountaineers seeking a technical challenge beyond standard trekking peaks.
Trip Highlights
What makes this expedition special
Summit the 6,610m Payu Peak in the heart of the Karakoram range
1
Eight-day trek along the legendary Baltoro Glacier corridor
2
Spectacular views of K2, Broad Peak, and the Trango Towers
3
Technical mountaineering involving steep ice and mixed terrain
4
Experience the culture of Skardu and the remote village of Askole
5
Comprehensive expedition support including full Base Camp infrastructure
6
Day by Day Itinerary
Airport transfer and evening expedition briefing.
540 meters
Welcome Dinner
Hotel
Official permit processing and mandatory government briefing.
540 meters
Breakfast
Hotel
Spectacular 45-minute flight to Skardu or drive via Karakoram Highway in case of cancellation.
2,500 meters
Breakfast, Dinner
Hotel
Final logistics, porter planning, and gear checks in Skardu bazaar.
2,500 meters
Breakfast, Dinner
Hotel
6-7 hour jeep drive to the last village at the gateway to the high peaks.
3,050 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camping
First day of trekking through rugged Karakoram terrain.
3,170 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camping
Trek to the last green oasis with views of Payu Peak and Trango Towers.
3,600 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camping
Acclimatization and traditional bread baking by the porter team.
3,600 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camping
Establish Base Camp on the Baltoro Glacier with dramatic views.
4,300 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Base Camp
Fixed rope training and a traditional blessing ceremony.
4,300 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Base Camp
24 days allocated for rotations, establishment of high camps, and summit attempts.
4,300m to 6,610m
Full Expedition Meals
Base Camp / High Camps
Packing and cleaning Base Camp followed by descent.
3,500 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camping
Final trek back to the village for a celebration with the porter team.
3,050 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Camping
Return journey to Skardu for hot showers and comfort.
2,500 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Hotel
Morning flight back to the capital (subject to weather).
540 meters
Breakfast, Dinner
Hotel
Free day for delays or recovery and a farewell dinner.
540 meters
Breakfast, Farewell Dinner
Hotel
Final transfer to Islamabad International Airport.
540 meters
Breakfast
None
Note: This 40-day schedule includes contingency days for weather and acclimatization. The Karakoram is unpredictable; flights to Skardu are weather-dependent, and the climbing period is governed by current route conditions. Patience for weather windows is essential for success.
What's Included
Included
9 items included
- Professional airport pickup and drop-off in Islamabad
- All accommodation in hotels and camping
- All meals during the expedition
- Domestic flights Islamabad-Skardu-Islamabad (subject to weather)
- Government expedition permits and royalty fees
- Porter support and wages from Askole to Base Camp
- Full Base Camp infrastructure (individual tents, mess tent, kitchen)
- Government Liaison Officer logistics and allowances
- CKNP waste management and environmental fees
Not Included
8 items not included
- International flights to and from Pakistan
- Pakistan mountaineering visa fees
- Mandatory high-altitude rescue insurance
- Personal climbing equipment and clothing
- High-altitude porters (HAPs) and specialized high-altitude food
- Oxygen cylinders and related regulators
- Tips for staff and porters
- Costs due to unforeseen delays (roadblocks, extra hotel nights)
Alpine Karakoram Adventure offers tiered service packages: Silver (Standard), Gold (Premium amenities), and Platinum (Private dedicated guide and logistics).
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