Uli Biaho Expedition
Conquer the Granite Spires of the Baltoro Muztagh
Uli Biaho Expedition
Conquer the Granite Spires of the Baltoro Muztagh
Conquer the Granite Spires of the Baltoro Muztagh
The granite spires of Uli Biaho rise from the Baltoro Glacier like frozen lightning, their sheer walls creating one of the most captivating formations in the entire Karakoram. Situated directly beside the legendary Trango Towers, this twin-summit massif offers elite climbers a choice between two distinct objectives: the higher Uli Biaho Peak (6,417m) with its mixed terrain and unclimbed history until 2006, or the technical Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m) with its vertical granite walls and established big wall routes . Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites experienced climbers to join our Uli Biaho expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with fixed departures scheduled from May through August—the optimal weather window when conditions are most stable for technical climbing at altitude . Our 30-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support. Slots are strictly limited for this remote and technical objective. Contact us to secure your place on one of the Karakoram's most magnificent granite formations.
Trip Stats
Difficulty
Challenging
Max Altitude
6,417 meters
Wind Speed
30-50 km/h
Temperature
-20°C to 10°C
Overview
The Uli Biaho group rises magnificently north of the Baltoro Glacier, situated directly beside the legendary Trango Towers in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. It forms one of the most captivating granite formations in the region. This group includes Uli Biaho Peak (6,417m) and Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m), along with several other striking spires and buttresses that draw the attention of elite climbers worldwide due to their sheer verticality and solid granite walls . Uli Biaho Peak stands as the highest summit of the group. Interestingly, this peak remained largely unclimbed until 2006, making it one of the most significant exploratory objectives in the Karakoram . In contrast, the Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m) was first conquered in 1979 by an American team led by John Roskelley . This tower is renowned for its steep and challenging granite walls, where mastery of technical rock climbing is essential. Its distinctive profile, visible along the Baltoro Glacier trek, combines with the Cathedral Spires and Trango Towers to create a mystical and awe-inspiring landscape. The 1979 first ascent of Uli Biaho Tower remains one of the great epics of Karakoram climbing. John Roskelley, Bill Forrest, Ron Kauk, and Kim Schmitz spent ten days on the 1,100-meter East Face in alpine style, living on tiny ledges and hauling 300 pounds of gear up the vertical wall . Roskelley later wrote: "The blitzkrieg of loose rock and ice pitched off by the leaders, ropes, haulbags and natural causes had us ducking for over-head protection, but it only added to the atmosphere of total commitment" . Alpine Karakoram Adventure operates expeditions to this remote region, which serves as the heart of the world's highest peaks, including K2 and the Gasherbrum massif. We run Uli Biaho expeditions from May to August, providing comprehensive logistics and technical support from Islamabad to Base Camp. This approximately 30-day expedition is a perfect blend of high-altitude technical mountaineering and travel through the planet's most spectacular mountain scenery.
Trip Highlights
What makes this trekking special
Choose to summit the high Uli Biaho Peak (6,417m) with its mixed terrain and relatively unclimbed history, or the technical Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m) with its vertical granite walls and established big wall routes
Opportunity to climb one of the Karakoram's most magnificent granite formations, situated directly beside the legendary Trango Towers in the heart of the Baltoro region
Experience world-class technical rock routes on Uli Biaho Tower, which has seen notable ascents including the 1979 first ascent (VII F8 A4, 34 pitches), the 1988 South Face route (6b A3, 800m), and the 2013 West Face ascent (6a/6b, 18 pitches in one and a half days)
Potential for a "First Ascent" on Uli Biaho Peak (which remained unclimbed until 2006) or new lines on the Great Spire, which saw its first ascent only in 2006 by Slovenian climbers Silvo Karo and Andrej Grmovsek via "Three Hundred Eggs" (600m, 6b+)
Trek the world-famous Baltoro Glacier, a journey through legendary landscapes passing beneath the granite cathedrals of the Karakoram
Establish Base Camp amidst the iconic Trango Towers and Cathedral Spires, with Uli Biaho's distinctive profile rising directly above
Enjoy 360-degree panoramic views of peaks ranging from 5,000m to 7,000m, including the entire Trango group, Cathedral Spires, and the upper Baltoro
Breathtaking vistas of K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum massif visible from higher camps on clear days
Follow in the footsteps of climbing legends including John Roskelley, Ron Kauk, Maurizio Giordani, and the 2013 Italian team who made the first one-day free ascent of the West Face
Experience the unique granite architecture of the Trango-Uli Biaho region, described by Roskelley as "climbers' heaven" with "a 2500-foot narrow glacial gully ending in a steep, open cirque below the pyramidal east face"
Full Base Camp support with dining tent, washrooms, showers, and solar power system, allowing you to focus entirely on technical climbing
Flexibility for both guided expeditions and self-sufficient "Alpine Style" climbing, with comprehensive service options ranging from Base Camp logistics to "Full Board" packages
Day by Day Itinerary
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport. Our team meets you at arrivals and transfers you to the hotel. The rest of the day is free for recovery from your journey. Evening...
Morning briefing at the Ministry of Tourism office, required for all expeditions. Complete official documentation and formalities. Afternoon meeting with your assigned Liaison Officer and final equipment checks. Last chance...
Morning flight to Skardu if weather permits. The spectacular 45-minute flight offers views of Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram Range. If weather prevents flying, drive from Islamabad to Chilas via...
If you flew to Skardu on Day 3, this is a free day for rest and preparation. Optional sightseeing to Kharpocho Fort, Satpara Lake, or the local bazaar. If road...
Rest day in Skardu for final preparations. Complete any last equipment needs and organize expedition supplies. Meet expedition staff including porters, cook, and the team. The Balti porters are renowned...
Drive by jeep from Skardu through the Shigar Valley to Askole, approximately 6 to 7 hours. The journey crosses the Indus and Shyok Rivers through spectacular mountain scenery. Askole is...
Begin trekking from Askole toward Jhola, approximately 5 to 6 hours of walking. Leave civilization behind and enter the dramatic landscape of the Braldu River valley. For the next seven...
Trek from Jhola to Paiju, approximately 6 to 7 hours. The path runs along the river before climbing to higher ground with excellent views of the impressive Paiju Peak. Paiju...
Rest and acclimatization day at Paiju. Prepare equipment for glacier crossing. Final opportunity to enjoy green surroundings before entering the ice world of the Baltoro Glacier. Short hikes for acclimatization.
Trek from Paiju onto the Baltoro Glacier and continue toward Uli Biaho Base Camp, approximately 5 to 6 hours. Climb onto the great glacier where ice is covered by rubble...
Full day dedicated to setting up the main base camp, organizing technical gear, and a Puja ceremony for safe passage on the mountain. The base camp sits in a stunning...
Climbing period concludes. Pack all gear and clean Base Camp thoroughly, leaving no trace according to strict environmental protocols. Trek back across the Baltoro Glacier to Paiju. Return to the...
Continue descent from Paiju to Jhola, retracing the approach route through the Braldu River valley. The lower altitude brings easier breathing and warmer temperatures.
Trek from Jhola back to Askole village. Return to civilization and human settlement. Celebrate the completion of the expedition with the porter team and express appreciation for their hard work.
Drive by jeep from Askole back to Skardu, approximately 6 to 7 hours. First hot shower and comfortable accommodation after weeks in the mountains. Overnight in hotel in Skardu.
Morning flight from Skardu to Islamabad if weather permits. If weather prevents flying, drive from Skardu to Chilas, approximately 8 to 9 hours. Overnight in hotel in Islamabad or Chilas.
If road travel to Chilas was necessary on Day 32, complete the drive from Chilas to Islamabad, approximately 10 to 12 hours. If the flight operated on Day 32, enjoy...
After breakfast, transfer to Islamabad International Airport for international departure. The Uli Biaho expedition concludes.
Note: This itinerary represents our standard plan based on experience organizing expeditions in the Baltoro region. The technical nature of Uli Biaho climbing demands maximum flexibility. Weather, rock conditions, and the difficulty of routes mean actual climbing duration varies. According to Pakistani government regulations, peaks under 6,500 meters do not require climbing permits, but Uli Biaho Peak at 6,417m falls within this category—however, all expeditions must still coordinate with the Ministry of Tourism and travel with a licensed guide or Liaison Officer . Your expedition operates independently on technical climbing while we provide comprehensive Base Camp support.
What's Included
Included
12 items included
- Lodging at Base Camp with single supplement available
- Full Base Camp with dining tent, bathroom, showers, and solar charging with generator backup
- All internal and domestic transport throughout the expedition
- All domestic flights between Islamabad and Skardu
- 50kg personal baggage allowance per member
- All meals during trek and at Base Camp (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- Group emergency equipment and satellite phone service (fixed calling charges apply)
- Two nights in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two on return with breakfast
- Staff insurance covering guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistants, and porters
- Experienced Pakistani cook and kitchen staff throughout the expedition
- Porters for all expedition supplies
- Solar power at Base Camp with generator backup for high voltage devices
Not Included
16 items not included
- International airfare to and from Pakistan
- Pakistan mountaineering visa fee
- Government royalty fees based on seasonal rates and team size
- Personal climbing equipment, technical hardware, clothing, and sleeping gear
- Group climbing gear including ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, gas canisters, cooking pots
- Portaledges, wall camping equipment, big wall hauling gear, and aid climbing hardware
- Mandatory mountain climbing rescue and evacuation insurance
- Lodging and meals above Base Camp
- Any services provided above Base Camp
- Communication radio (walkie-talkie) and weather reports
- Personal equipment cargo to and from Islamabad
- Tips and gratuities to staff, cook, and porters
- Meals in Islamabad beyond breakfast
- Trip cancellation insurance and extra hotel nights
- Expenses incurred in the event of early conclusion or extended summit attempt
- Charges due to delays beyond the control of Alpine Karakoram Adventure
We understand that every climber has unique needs and different experience levels. The inclusions above represent our standard expedition package. We cater to both guided expeditions and non-guided alpine-style climbing teams, with flexible service levels from Base Camp support to full-board packages . Additional high-altitude support can be arranged at extra cost, including a personal Pakistani High Altitude Porter (HAP) who will transport up to 20 kg of personal gear between camps .
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