Latok I, II, III & IV Expedition
Featured Expedition

Latok I, II, III & IV Expedition

Conquer the Vertical Arena of Granite and Ice in the Panmah Muztagh

Latok I, II, III & IV Expedition
Featured Expedition

Latok I, II, III & IV Expedition

Conquer the Vertical Arena of Granite and Ice in the Panmah Muztagh

35 days (including contingencies and trek in/out)

Conquer the Vertical Arena of Granite and Ice in the Panmah Muztagh

The window to climb in the Karakoram is brief, and the mountains do not wait. Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites experienced alpinists to join our Latok expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with departures scheduled from July through August—the optimal weather window when the Panmah Muztagh offers its most stable conditions . Our 35-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support. The Latok group—comprising Latok I (7,145m), Latok II (7,108m), Latok III (6,949m), and Latok IV (6,456m)—represents one of the most visually arresting and technically demanding clusters of mountains in the world . Defined by sheer verticality and complex architecture, these peaks have captivated alpinists for decades and rebuffed some of the strongest climbing teams in history . Slots are strictly limited each season. Contact us to secure your place in this vertical arena of granite and ice.

Trip Stats

Rock ClimbingGilgit Baltistan

Difficulty

Hard

EasyModerateHardExtreme

Max Altitude

7,145 meters

Wind Speed

40-60 km/h

Temperature

-25°C to -10°C

Overview

The Panmah Muztagh, a sub-range of the Central Karakoram, is home to one of the most visually arresting and technically demanding clusters of mountains in the world: the Latok group. Comprising Latok I at 7,145 meters, Latok II at 7,108 meters, Latok III at 6,949 meters, and Latok IV at 6,456 meters, these peaks are defined by their sheer verticality and complex architecture . Unlike the sprawling massifs of the 8,000-meter peaks, the Latok group is characterized by "Big Wall" phenomena—precipices of granite and ice that rise at angles often exceeding 70 degrees for vertical kilometers . It is a vertical arena where rock climbing prowess is as vital as high-altitude endurance. The region offers a mixture of extreme ice and rock climbing that has captivated alpinists for decades. While the skylines are dominated by these four giants, the surrounding terrain includes spectacular formations such as the Biacherahi Towers and Hanipispur. The approach via the Choktoi and Panmah Glaciers immerses climbers in a landscape of jagged spires and unstable snow mushrooms, offering a raw and pristine wilderness experience. For adventure lovers, the area remains a treasure trove of unclimbed faces and new lines, far removed from the commercial traffic of the Baltoro. Latok I, the highest of the group, presents a fortress of granite that has rebuffed some of the world's strongest climbing teams. The sheer scale of its North Ridge is legendary in the mountaineering community, representing one of the "last great problems" of the Himalaya-Karakoram for nearly forty years. The 1978 American expedition of Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe came within 400–500 feet of the summit on this ridge, a climb widely regarded as "The Most Remarkable Failure in Climbing History" . Kennedy later wrote of the experience: "The climbing was magnificent, ranging from 5.9 rock with the odd bit of aid to 85-degree ice, never desperate but always sustained. We spent four nights above 21,000 feet on tiny ledges hacked out of the ice, including one in a storm on the descent, the most horrible night I have ever spent in the mountains" . In August 2018, the trio of Aleš Česen (Slovenia), Luka Stražar (Slovenia), and Tom Livingstone (UK) finally succeeded in climbing the north side of Latok I, spending seven days on the mountain and climbing approximately three-quarters of the North Ridge before traversing to the west side to reach the summit . It marked only the second ascent of the mountain in history and earned the Piolet d'Or in 2019 . Livingstone described the climb: "In terms of numbers, the route was about 2400 meters of vertical height gain from glacier to summit. Bivies weren't excellent. We could move together over some ground, always aiming for the fastest, smartest and logical line. Where we pitched, we tried to be quick. Inevitably we encountered some pitches of hard/steep/rotten ice and mixed" . The Latok group's climbing history includes numerous bold ascents and tragic losses. Latok II was first climbed in 1977 by an Italian team, and in 1997 Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, and Conrad Anker climbed its sheer West Face, describing it as putting "El Capitan on top of Denali": a 1,000-meter vertical rock wall with a base at 6,100 meters . Latok III's 2,000-meter west face required 63 pitches when first climbed by a Russian team in 2011 . The region has also witnessed tragedy—British climbers Pat Fearneough (1978) and Don Morrison (1977) lost their lives on Latok II, and in 2018, Russian climber Sergey Glazunov fell to his death during descent on Latok I, leaving his partner Alexander Gukov stranded for seven days at 6,200 meters before helicopter rescue . Whether attempting the technical granite prow of Latok III or the mixed terrain of the higher peaks, an expedition here is a serious undertaking in one of the most savage and beautiful corners of Pakistan.

Trip Highlights

What makes this trekking special

1

Big Wall Alpinism: Climb in a region known for having some of the world's premier big walls, with vertical relief surpassing 2,000 meters on faces like Latok III's west face and Latok I's north ridge

2

The North Ridge: View and potentially attempt the legendary North Ridge of Latok I, a knife-edge of rock and snow mushrooms that defied complete ascent for decades until the 2018 Slovenian-British success

3

Multiple Objectives: Opportunity to attempt various peaks within the cluster—Latok I, II, III, or IV—or explore the unclimbed faces of satellite peaks like Biacherahi Dome and Hanipispur

4

Technical Granite: High-quality granite climbing on Latok III, including the 3,000-foot prow first climbed in 1979, and on Latok II's west face, described as "El Capitan on top of Denali"

5

Choktoi Glacier: Camp on the Choktoi Glacier, surrounded by a natural amphitheater of spires including the Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and the Latoks, at approximately 4,500 meters

6

Historical Significance: Walk in the footsteps of legendary climbers—Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, the Lowe brothers, Doug Scott, Alexander Huber, Conrad Anker, and the 2018 Piolet d'Or-winning team

7

Trekking Approach: A scenic and less-traveled trekking route from Askole through Upper Jhola, Donglonba, and Lamidokpa, far from the crowded Baltoro Highway

8

Unclimbed Terrain: Plenty of opportunity for first ascents on secondary ridges and faces that remain untouched, particularly on the lesser-visited aspects of Latok IV

9

Remote Wilderness: A quieter expedition experience compared to Concordia, offering solitude and intense engagement with the environment

10

Pristine Campsites: Camping at locations like Lamidokpa which offer respite before the harsh glacial environment of Base Camp

11

Proximity to Snow Lake: Close to the Sim La and the vast glacial basin of Snow Lake (Lukpe Lawo), one of the world's largest glacier systems outside the polar regions

Day by Day Itinerary

Most international flights land at Islamabad International Airport. Our team meets you at arrivals, handles the welcome, and transfers you to your accommodation. The rest of the day is yours...

30 km from airport540 metersHotel in IslamabadWelcome Dinner

Morning visit to the Ministry of Tourism for official expedition briefing and permit processing. This is mandatory for all expeditions in Pakistan. We meet our Liaison Officer, who accompanies the...

Local transfers540 metersHotel in IslamabadBreakfast

Early start for the 45-minute flight to Skardu—one of the most spectacular commercial flights anywhere. On clear days, you see Nanga Parbat sliding past your window. Flights cancel frequently; Skardu...

Flight 320 km540m to 2,450mHotel in SkarduBreakfast, Dinner

Skardu is the capital of Baltistan and gateway to the Karakoram peaks. We use this day for final logistics: briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, permit verification, load planning with...

Local transfers2,450 metersHotel in SkarduBreakfast, Dinner

We load jeeps and begin the drive. The road follows the Indus River, branches along the Shigar, then follows the Braldu deeper into the mountains. The jeep road crosses the...

6–7 hours jeep drive2,450m to 3,050mCamping at AskoleBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

First trekking day, approximately 5–6 hours. We leave Askole and follow the trail toward the junction of the glaciers. Walk through Askole and past the confluence of the Biafo and...

5–6 hours trekking3,050m to 3,200mCamping at Upper JholaBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Chanchikon to the campsite at Donglonba as you move deeper into the Panmah system. The route follows the moraine-covered Biafo Glacier with views of Pyramidal Baakhor Das Peak...

5–6 hours trekking3,200m to 3,500mCamping at DonglonbaBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Donglonba to Lamidokpa at approximately 3,900 meters. The terrain becomes increasingly glaciated with spectacular views of the Latok spires beginning to appear. Trek duration approximately 5–6 hours .

5–6 hours trekking3,500m to 3,900mCamping at LamidokpaBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Lamidokpa to the Latok I, II, III & IV Base Camp situated on the Choktoi Glacier at approximately 4,500 meters . From Mango we get on the white...

5–6 hours trekking3,900m to 4,500mLatok Base CampBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Well-earned rest day. Technical training on big wall techniques, ice climbing, and crevasse rescue. Local staff perform a Puja Ceremony—a blessing for safe passage—with prayer flags and traditional rituals. Gear...

Base Camp activities4,500 metersLatok Base CampBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Twenty days dedicated to climbing activities. This includes the establishment of Advanced Base Camp (ABC) and higher camps, technical route fixing on granite and ice, acclimatization, and summit attempts on...

4,500m to various summits and backBase Camp / High Camps / Wall bivouacsBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner at Base Camp; high-energy foods at altitude

Climbing period concludes. Clean up Base Camp thoroughly, ensuring all environmental protocols are met and no trace is left behind . Trek back down the glacier to Lamidokpa. Trek duration...

5–6 hours trekking4,500m to 3,900mCamping at LamidokpaBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Trek from Lamidokpa back to Upper Jhola (Chanchikon). Trek duration approximately 5–6 hours .

5–6 hours trekking3,900m to 3,200mCamping at Upper JholaBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Final trek from Chanchikon back to Askole village. Trek duration approximately 5–6 hours . Farewell dinner with the porter team, celebrating the completion of the expedition and expressing appreciation for...

5–6 hours trekking3,200m to 3,050mCamping at AskoleBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Jeep drive from Askole back to Skardu. First hot shower and comfortable rest after weeks in the mountains . Check into hotel for a well-earned night of comfort.

6–7 hours jeep drive3,050m to 2,450mHotel in SkarduBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Official de-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and final farewell dinner with the expedition staff . Process final documentation and celebrate the expedition's achievements.

Local transfers2,450 metersHotel in SkarduBreakfast, Farewell Dinner

Fly to Islamabad if weather permits. Board the plane for the spectacular flight out of the valley, once again passing Nanga Parbat before turning south. If the flight cancels, drive...

Flight 320 km or 8–9 hours drive2,450m to 540mHotel in Islamabad or ChilasBreakfast, Dinner

Reserved for delays—cancelled flights, road blocks, or bureaucratic requirements. If already in Islamabad, this becomes recovery time, shopping for souvenirs, final paperwork, and additional rest. The flight to Skardu is...

Local transfers540 metersHotel in IslamabadBreakfast, Farewell Dinner

After breakfast, transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your international departure. The Latok expedition concludes.

30 km to airport540 metersNoneBreakfast

Note: The climbing period of 20 days is a flexible guideline and can be adjusted based on the expedition's specific goals and weather conditions . The approach via the Choktoi Glacier involves traversing complex and remote glacial terrain. Flight cancellations are common in Northern Pakistan; the team must be prepared for road travel on the Karakoram Highway . The Latok group's climbing history includes numerous attempts turned back by weather, technical difficulty, and objective hazards . Patience for proper weather windows is essential for a safe summit. As the 1978 American team demonstrated, even near-success can become a desperate retreat. Your expedition leader works to minimize inconvenience while maintaining safety as the top priority.

What's Included

Included

13 items included

  • Professional airport pickup and drop-off at Islamabad International Airport
  • Domestic flights Islamabad-Skardu-Islamabad (subject to weather; road contingency via Karakoram Highway if cancelled)
  • All accommodation (hotels in Islamabad/Skardu/Chilas, camping during trek)
  • All meals from welcome dinner through departure breakfast
  • Transportation between Skardu – Askole – Skardu by jeep
  • Full processing of expedition permits and government documentation
  • Porter and staff support from Askole to Base Camp including wages, insurance, food, and equipment (75kg per member up, 50kg down)
  • Complete Base Camp infrastructure with individual member tents, mess tent, kitchen tent, store tent, office tent, toilet tent, tables, chairs, and kitchen utensils
  • Licensed professional guide and Liaison Officer kit allowance, food, and flight fare
  • All camping fees, road taxes, and bridge crossing fees
  • CKNP waste management fee
  • Royalty fees and additional member fees as per government regulations
  • All taxes and service charges

Not Included

13 items not included

  • International flights to and from Pakistan
  • Pakistan mountaineering visa fee
  • Mandatory travel and high-altitude rescue insurance (must cover helicopter evacuation up to 7,500m)
  • Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable deposit required)
  • Personal climbing equipment, technical hardware, and clothing
  • Personal expenses: telephone calls, laundry, soft drinks, alcoholic beverages
  • High altitude tents and high altitude food
  • High-altitude porters (HAPs)
  • Sleeping bags and all personal items of a purely personal nature
  • Custom clearing charges for import/export of personal equipment
  • EPI gas canisters and oxygen cylinders
  • Tips for Base Camp staff, porters, and local crew (customary, amount at your discretion)
  • Unforeseen costs due to roadblocks, extra hotel stays, or extended Base Camp stays

We understand that every climber has unique needs and different experience levels. The inclusions above represent our standard expedition package. However, Alpine Karakoram Adventure can customize your plan with additional support or private arrangements.

35 days (including contingencies and trek in/out)

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Latok I, II, III & IV Expedition

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